Yukon: Essence of the Gold Rush

1. Yukon600-volt operation replaces its originally intended
                The Yukon, the vast,550-volt current, and the installation of railroad wheels
rugged, thinly populated expanse of land locatedpermits it to run on the White Pass and Yukon Route
above the 60th parallel in northwestern Canada whichRailroad’s 36-inch tracks, although it had been
shares its border with Alaska and accurately earns itsdesigned, with its original trolley wheel base, to utilize
self-proclaimed slogan of “larger than life,” isthe narrower, 34.5-inch rail width.
a topographically diverse, serenely beautiful, and                Because of the equally
intoxicatingly attractive territory of barren, treelessstandard-gauge body, it permits four-abreast,
plains, boreal forests, rugged mountains, glaciers, andtwo-two, seating, sporting a varnished hardwood
mirror-reflective lakes and rivers inhabited byoak, mahogany, and cherry interior with original signs
Canada’s First Nations people and abundantstill in Portuguese.
wildlife.  Because of its high latitude, it experiences                The Whitehorse Rapids Fish
more than 20 hours of daylight in the summer, butLadder and Hatchery, located five minutes out of
fewer than five in the winter, replaced, instead, bytown, had resulted from the late-1950s construction
the northern lights known as the “auroraof the Whitehorse Rapids Hydroelectric Facility by
borealis.”  Aside from the major “cities,”the Northern Canada Power Commission.  The
most communities are only accessible by floatplane orAlaska and Klondike Highways, linking many
dogsled.communities and obviating the need for the then-vital
                The Yukon’s history is,sternwheeler river transportation system, ultimately
in essence, that of the Gold Rush.  Sparked by theled to the transfer of the Yukon’s capital from
August 16, 1896 discovery of a gold nugget inDawson to Whitehorse, and its population expansion
northwestern Canada at the confluence of thecould no longer be supported by the downtown
Yukon and Klondike Rivers, it began when somediesel generator electricity method.  Construction of
100,000, seeking wealth and adventure, set off onthe greater-capacity hydroelectric dam, commencing
what had later been designated the Klondike Goldin 1956, formed Schwatka Lake, and this produced
Rush Trail between 1897 and 1898.  The event,the city’s first electricity two years later, in 1958.
which produced an instantaneous population boom                Although the facility
and ultimately shaped the territory, traces its path toimproved the quality of life for the human population,
five significant locations in both the United States andit proved the detriment to the salmon species in the
Canada.river.  Salmon had traveled up the Yukon River to
                The first of these, Seattle,spawn for thousands of years, laying their eggs in
Washington, had served as the gateway to thegravel which, after the winter gestation period,
Yukon.  Advertised as the “outfitter of the goldhatched into alevins in early-spring, and fed and
fields,” it sold supplies and gear stocked ten feetdeveloped in the cold, clear waters for up to two
deep on storefront boardwalks, grossing $25 million inyears.  Swimming out to the ocean, they returned
sales by early-1898, and was the launching point forseveral years later to the exact location of their
the all-water route through the Gulf of Alaska to St.births to lay their own eggs and begin the process
Michael, and then down the Yukon River to Dawsonanew.
City.  Despite the high fares, which few could                In order to circumvent the
afford, all passages had been sold out.new hydroelectric dam and permit them to continue
                Dyea and its Chilkoot Trail,their life cycles, the world’s longest wooden fish
the second location, had provided a slower, moreladder, at 366 meters, had been built in 1959. 
treacherous, alternate route, via the 33-mile ChilkootProgressively rising in steps by 15 meters from the
trail which linked tidewater Alaska with the CanadianYukon River to Schwatka Lake, it enables salmon to
headwaters of the Yukon River.safely pass round the dam and continue their
                Skagway, Alaska, the thirdmigration process.
location, quickly replaced Dyea as the “Gateway                A two-hour boat cruise on
to the Klondike” because of its more navigableSchwatka Lake by the appropriately-named m/v
White Pass route which, although ten miles longerSchwatka, a 28-ton, dual-decked, 40-passenger boat,
than that of the Chilkoot Trail, had entailed aprovides an excellent introduction to
600-foot-lower climb.  The trail, quickly destroyedWhitehorse’s wilderness side and sails through
because of overuse, had ultimately been replaced byMiles Canyon, the turbulent “Devil’s
the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad whosePunchbowl,” and the Yukon River itself.
construction, financed by British investors, had                Several interesting
commenced in May of 1898 and had extended to theattractions are located along the Alaska Highway, up
White Pass Summit by February of 1899, BennettTwo Mile Hill Road.
Lake by July of 1899, and Whitehorse by July of the                The Copperbelt Mining
following year.  Skagway itself had beenRailway and Museum, the first of these, provides a
metamorphosed from a cleared, tent-dotted field to1.8-kilometer figure-eight loop from its red McIntyre
boardwalk-lined streets sporting wooden buildingsStation building through the skinny spruce forest,
with 80 saloons in the four-month period betweenusing an abandoned spur line of the White Pass and
August and December 1897.Yukon Route Railroad located in the historic
                At Bennett Lake, the fourthWhitehorse Copper Belt mining district.  Its two
location, 30,000 stampeders awaited the spring thaw,engines, 10- and 20-hp Loke diesels, were
constructing 7,124 boats from whipsawn greenmanufactured by the Jenacher Werks in Austria in
lumber and launching their flotilla on May 29, 1898,1969 and 1967, respectively.
fighting the Whitehorse rapids before following the                The Yukon Transportation
Yukon River to Dawson City.Museum depicts the territory’s Gold Rush
                Dawson City itself, the fifthtransportation heritage, displaying unusual travel
location, had been the site of the first gold nuggetmodes associated with the north, from the
discovery and had begun as a small island betweensnowshoe to the dogsled to the airplane.  Exhibits
the Yukon and Klondike Rivers hitherto only occupiedinclude a Canadian Pacific DC-3 mounted on an
by the Han First Nations people, but exploded intooutside pedestal; a full-size riverboat, the
Canada’s largest city west of Winnipeg and“Neecheah,” and a steam locomotive.  Inside
north of Vancouver with up to 40,000 gold seekersexhibits include a gasoline-powered Casey car, which
covering a ten-mile area along the river banks. transported workers on the rails; a passenger car
Thirty cords of firewood were used to burn shaftsused by the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad; a
through the permafrost to the mines themselves. White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad model train
Of the 4,000 who actually discovered gold, only alayout; a Ryan B-1 Bougham designated “Queen
few hundred ultimately emerged “rich.” of the Yukon,” a sister ship to Lindbergh’s
2. Whitehorse “Spirit of St. Louis,” which served as the first
                Whitehorse, thecommercial airplane to have operated in the Yukon
Yukon’s wilderness capital on the banks of theafter its purchase from the San Diego factory by
Yukon River with a population of 23,000, had itselfYukon Airways and Exploration, Ltd., in 1927 for
been shaped by the gold rush and the transportation$10,200.00; dog sleds; a 1927 Chevrolet convertible; a
means which developed to facilitate it.  Named forfive-cylinder Kinner engine; a Lycoming R-680 engine;
the rapids on the Yukon River, which resembled thea 1965 International Travelall ambulance; a welded
flowing manes of charging white horses, the area hadsteel frame from a Fairchild FC-2W2; a Smith DGA-1
first served as a fishing encampment of the Kwanlin“Miniplane” homebuild; a bus from the B.Y.N.
Dun First Nations people.  In 1987, theBus Lines; military vehicles, including a
tent-comprised Canyon City served as theseven-passenger Dodge Carryall used by the US
operational base of a horse-drawn tramway which,Army’s Northwest Service Command during
for a fee, carried people and goods, particularly goldconstruction of the Alcan Highway; and a log rail
rushers, round the treacherous White Horse Rapidstramway which used parallel logs as “tracks.”
on log rails.                The Yukon Beringia
                Three years later, in 1900,Interpretive Center examines Beringia, a
the tracks of the White Pass and Yukon Routesub-continent of the last Ice Age which had been
Railroad reached the city, today the only internationallocated in the Bering Strait and had encompassed
narrow gauge railroad still operating in North America,Siberia, Alaska, and the Yukon.  Although the
and passengers transferred to the extensiveremainder of Canada had laid under massive ice
riverboat service, which completed the journey tosheets, Beringia itself had been untouched by glaciers
Dawson City by the Yukon River.because of the 125-meter reduction in sea levels,
                In 1942, the US Armyproducing tundra whose tough, dry grasses had
completed the 1,534-mile Alaska Highway in a recordsupported a wide range of herbivores and carnivores.
eight months, 23 days, and Whitehorse had been                The woolly mammoth,
incorporated as a city in 1950.  Three years later, itamong them, had been the predecessor to the
replaced Dawson as the capital of the Yukon.modern Asiatic elephant and the museum sports a
                Whitehorse itself isfull-size cast of the largest example ever recovered. 
accessible by multiple travel modes.  The pavedThe short-faced bear, which had been one foot taller
Alaska, Haines, and Klondike Highways provide roadthan today’s grizzly counterpart, had been the
access within the territory and to Alaska, while thelargest, most powerful land carnivore in North
gravel Dempster Highway connects Dawson CityAmerica during the last Ice Age.  The museum also
with Inuvik above the Arctic Circle in the Northwestfeatures a reconstruction of the 24,000-year-old
Territories.  The Alaska Marine Highway and multiple,Bluefish Cave archaeological site.
daily cruise ships serve Skagway and Haines, Alaska,                The earliest human
during the summer season.  The White Pass andinhabitants, following bison and mammoth herds
Yukon Route Railroad connects Skagway with Fraser24,000 years ago, had migrated from western
and Bennett Lake, British Columbia, with service soonBeringia to current Canada. 
to be extended to Whitehorse.  And the3. Kluane National Park               
Whitehorse airport offers daily service, via Air North,                One of four contiguous
Air Canada Jazz, First Air, and Condor, to Yellowknife,national and provincial parks, inclusive of the
Dawson, Fairbanks, Vancouver, Edmonton, Calgary,Yukon’s 21,980 square-kilometer Kluane National
and Frankfurt, Germany.  Floatplanes provide remotePark, Alaska’s 52,600 square-kilometer
community access.Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska’s 13,360
                The story of Whitehorsesquare-kilometer Glacier Bay National Park, and British
can be traced by its many diverse sights andColumbia’s 9,580 square-kilometer
attractions.Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park, Kluane National
                The MacBride Museum, forPark itself is topographically diverse, encompassing
instance, toted as “Yukon’s firstmassive mountains, valleys, lakes, boreal forests,
museum” and housed in a log structure with avalley glaciers, and ice fields.  Of the two mountain
sod roof, had been established in 1951 by historian Billranges—the Kluane and Icefield—the latter
MacBride in order to explore the Yukon’ssports Canada’s highest peak, Mount Logan, at
history.  It features stuffed wildlife in its upper19,545 feet.  The largest non-polar ice field in the
gallery; “Rivers of Gold,” an exhibit depictingworld, a remnant of the last Ice Age, is also located
Yukon prospecting and placer mining since 1883, andhere.
Yukon’s First Nations people, in its lower gallery;                Of the two types of
and early copper mining equipment, blacksmithing, andpopulations—human and animal—the former
Sam McGee’s original, 1899 cabin in one of twoincludes the Southern Tutchone people, who had
outside exhibition areas.  The other containspreviously lived a nomadic lifestyle, but continue to
overland stages used by the White Pass and Yukonpractice a culture which closely revolves round the
Route between Whitehorse and Dawson, an 1895natural world, and the latter includes grizzly bears,
Northwest Mounted Police Patrol cabin, and Enginelynx, mountain goats, moose, wolves, black bears,
number 51, built in 1881 and used on the White Passcaribou, coyotes, 180 species of birds, and the
and Yukon Route Railroad seven years later in 1898.world’s largest concentration of dall sheep.
                The Old Log Church                Haines Junction, which is
Museum, an Anglican cathedral built in 1900, is one oflocated two hours from Whitehorse via the Alaska
the oldest buildings in Whitehorse and tells the storyHighway and serves as the national park’s base,
of the early Yukon missionaries, including that of theis a year-round, full-service village whose modern
priest who survived a winter expedition by eating hishistory began in 1942 with the completion of the
own boots for sustenance.Alaska Highway itself at Milepost 1016.  A year later,
                Perhaps the most populara branch road, over the Chilkat Pass, connected it
sight, and one which serves as the very city symbol,with Haines, Alaska, and Kluane National Park had
is the S. S. Klondike, a National Historical Site ofbeen designated a preserve in 1972.
Canada.  The largest of the 250 sternwheelers to                Its few sights, always
have plied the Yukon River at 64 meters long andflanked by the breathtaking, purple-hued St. Elias
12.5 meters wide, it had been constructed in 1920 byMountains, include the Village Monument, a local
the British Yukon Navigation Company, a subsidiary ofwildlife sculpture; the eight-sided log St.
the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, in the cityChristopher'’s Anglican Church; and the Our Lady
of Whitehorse itself, and had been an integral part ofof the Way Catholic Church, which had been
the inland water transportation system whichconstructed in 1954 from an old army Quonset hut
connected Whitehorse with the remainder of theremaining from the Alaska Highway project.
territory and hence served as the principle element                The ubiquitous slender, dark
of its own growth.green spruce, encountered during my own tour of
                The design, which traced itsthe national park, lined either side of the deserted
lineage as far back as 1866 when the first suchHaines Highway, the vertical ridges of the St. Elias
steam-powered riverboat reached Selkirk, the S. S.Mountains of Kluane National Park on the right side
Klondike I, with a 1,362.5-ton gross weight andhues of purple, chocolate brown, and velvet-green at
powered by two 525-hp compound jet-condensertheir bases.  The silver surface of Kathleen Lake
engines, had featured a revolutionary hull whichreflected between them.
enabled it to offer 50 percent more cargo volume                Kluane National Park and the
than previous configurations without sacrificingadjacent Wrangell-St. Elias National monument across
shallow draft instability, enabling it to accommodatethe border in the United States had been jointly
more than 300-ton loads for the first time, along withnominated to the UNESCO World Heritage List in
75 first and second class passengers.  Of its three1979.  Together, the properties present an
decks, the first, or main, deck housed the engines,unbroken, pristine natural system, with a rich variety
boilers, and cargo; the second the lounge,of vegetation, patterns, and ecosystems.
communications office, dining room, galley, and sun                The first stop of my own
deck; and the third the bridge and the crew quarters.drive revealed a pebble beach, which, acting like a
                Succeeded by thethreshold, led toward the emerald green water of
dimensionally identical Klondike II after the initial vesselKathleen Lake, bracketed on either side by tall, silent,
ran aground in 1936, itself completing the 460-milefragrant spruce, the water itself interfacing with the
downstream run from Whitehorse to Dawson in 36green-carpeted mountain on the far side in seamless
hours with only one or two wood-replenishing stops,transition, taking the eye up to the brown,
it had been operated as a cargo boat between 1937vegetationless top, from which a slender “s”
and 1952 and had ultimately been converted into aof snow still snaked, a remainder of the long winter
small cruise ship for service until 1955.and short summer “pause” between the
                The current dry-dockednext frigid cycle.  Since it had been August, that
boat appears in its 1930 guise.beginning had not been very far way in these
                The Whitehorse Trainnorthern latitudes.
Depot, which replaced the originally constructed, but                The Kokanee salmon, living
later fire- consumed structure, reflects the typicalin the fresh water lake for the first three years of
western Canadian architecture of the early 20thits life, swims the short distance to Sockeye Lake in
century, although alterations had been made duringthe fourth year, at which time it dies.  In the 1700s,
World War II and during the Alaska Highwaythe Lowell Glacier had surged across the Alaska
project.  After scheduled railway service had beenRiver, blocking its drainage into the Pacific Ocean and
discontinued in 1982, the Yukon government hadthus creating an enormous lake.  When the dam
purchased the building and restored it, its passengersuddenly burst in 1856, the waters had been released
waiting room now reflecting its 1950s heritage.in torrential floods, draining the basin.
                The Whitehorse Waterfront                Kluane National Park sports
trolley, using the narrow-gauge White Pass andboth glaciers of ice and rock, the latter formed in
Yukon Route Railroad tracks and paralleling the Yukoncold, alpine environments on mountain slopes.  During
River with stops at Rotary Peace Park, the Touristthe last 8,000 years, brittle bedrock shattered into
Information Center, the White Pass Train Depot,fragments by the freezing and thawing action of the
Wood Street, Shipyard’s Park and Kishwootwinter-summer cycle.  Lubricated by meltwater and
Station, and Spook Creek, provides an excellentriding a core of glacial ice, a continually accumulating
introduction to the city, using a single trolley car,mass of rock slowly ground its way down the
number 531, for its hourly round-trip service.mountainside, forming rock glaciers.
                The car itself, in its original                The huge, deep blue of
yellow color scheme, had been partially built by theDezadeash Lake, encountered at another stop, had
J.G. Brill Company of Philadelphia in 1925 for the Lisbonbeen surrounded by considerably-distanced
Electric Company which subsequently assembled themountains, whose soft-curved, inverted bowl-like
kit in its Santo Amaro shop.  Of the 202 carspeaks had been reduced to gray and green, almost
constructed there, 24 had been of the car 531 type.indistinguishable silhouettes in the early-afternoon
                Trolley 531 had operated inbeneath the high, unobstructed, gleaming sun.  The
Lisbon until 1976, at which time it had been acquiredsky had been a flawless blue.
for the Lake Superior Museum of Transportation in                Klukshu Village, dotted with
Duluth, Minnesota, where it remained until the Yukontiny log cabins and a gift shop, had been an important
government had purchased it in 1999.  Flatbed truckplace for many Champagne and Aishihik families,
transport, through bitter cold and ice, enabled it toparticularly during salmon-spawning season between
reach the White Pass and Yukon Route engineJune and September when king, sockeye, and coho
restoration shed in Whitehorse on January 6, 2000.salmon migrate up the river. 
                The double-ended tram car,4. Conclusion
with controls at either end, has two 25-hp General                 The Yukon, with its capital
Electric motors and two k.3 controllers, and had beencity of Whitehorse and wilderness Kluane National
intended to operate off of overhead electrical linesPark, indeed provides an interesting journey through
with a power pole, but the lack of such facilities inits Gold Rush legacy and the transportation means
Whitehorse necessitated the temporary provision ofwhich had developed to facilitate it.
a trailer-installed electrical generator.  The present