| As soon as you enter Hampton Roads, the city | | | | leave shortly after first light. A fall-like northerly |
| begins to reveal itself. It's sprawling, muscular | | | | breeze catches our sails as we parade—and then, |
| and—from the water, at least—somewhat | | | | as the wind picks up, race past—the miles-long |
| forbidding: a commercial fishing basin, a giant shipyard, | | | | city and a shoreline fringed with history. It's been nice |
| an open-air coal pier, a fleet of reserve ships aging on | | | | getting to know Newport News, New Port Newse, |
| the waterfront. Somewhere—ahh, | | | | that mighty and mighty nice city along the James. As |
| there—between gray behemoths, are a few | | | | soon as you enter Hampton Roads, the city begins |
| downtown office buildings, a narrow park and the | | | | to reveal itself. It's sprawling, muscular and—from |
| barely visible top of a victory arch. | | | | the water, at least—somewhat forbidding: a |
| But don't be put off. Newport News does have | | | | commercial fishing basin, a giant shipyard, an open-air |
| accessible marinas, a few lovely spots for dropping | | | | coal pier, a fleet of reserve ships aging on the |
| anchor, inviting beaches, a vibrant fishing industry, a | | | | waterfront. Somewhere—ahh, there—between |
| gorgeous performing arts center and one of the | | | | gray behemoths, are a few downtown office |
| world's finest maritime museums. And it's all reachable | | | | buildings, a narrow park and the barely visible top of |
| by water, with a little extra effort—okay, maybe | | | | a victory arch. But don't be put off. Newport News |
| a lot. | | | | does have accessible marinas, a few lovely spots for |
| There's history here, as deep as the water just off | | | | dropping anchor, inviting beaches, a vibrant fishing |
| the shoreline, and it begins with a name. It may well | | | | industry, a gorgeous performing arts center and one |
| be, as some contend, that Newport News | | | | of the world's finest maritime museums. And it's all |
| Point—the point of land that marks the end of | | | | reachable by water, with a little extra |
| Hampton Roads and the beginning of the James | | | | effort—okay, maybe a lot. There's history here, |
| River—got its name from the good news that | | | | as deep as the water just off the shoreline, and it |
| Captain Christopher Newport, leader of the | | | | begins with a name. It may well be, as some |
| Jamestown expedition, had returned with supplies. | | | | contend, that Newport News Point—the point of |
| But I prefer a more likely theory, that one William | | | | land that marks the end of Hampton Roads and the |
| Newce, a knighted Irishman, arrived shortly after the | | | | beginning of the James River—got its name from |
| 1607 settlement and established a seaport that came | | | | the good news that Captain Christopher Newport, |
| to be known as New Port Newce. | | | | leader of the Jamestown expedition, had returned |
| It was just off this point of land, two-and-a-half | | | | with supplies. But I prefer a more likely theory, that |
| centuries later, that two ungainly ironclad warships, | | | | one William Newce, a knighted Irishman, arrived |
| the U.S.S. Monitor and C.S.S. Virginia (nee U.S.S. | | | | shortly after the 1607 settlement and established a |
| Merrimack) battled to a draw on a fog-shrouded | | | | seaport that came to be known as New Port Newce. |
| morning in March 1862, marking the beginning of the | | | | It was just off this point of land, two-and-a-half |
| end of wooden fighting ships. Every time I pass this | | | | centuries later, that two ungainly ironclad warships, |
| way I think of that battle, and how so many naval | | | | the U.S.S. Monitor and C.S.S. Virginia (nee U.S.S. |
| ships, "ironclads" all, are now built just over there, on | | | | Merrimack) battled to a draw on a fog-shrouded |
| that near shore, practically within hailing distance; Also | | | | morning in March 1862, marking the beginning of the |
| not far from here, perhaps the distance of a | | | | end of wooden fighting ships. Every time I pass this |
| cannonball's flight, are the hoary remains of the | | | | way I think of that battle, and how so many naval |
| Monitor itself, resting in a world-class museum. | | | | ships, "ironclads" all, are now built just over there, on |
| I'm traveling by sailboat—my Tartan 30, Ode to | | | | that near shore, practically within hailing distance; Also |
| Joy—from my mooring on the Lafayette River in | | | | not far from here, perhaps the distance of a |
| Norfolk, hoping to take a closer look at what makes | | | | cannonball's flight, are the hoary remains of the |
| Newport News compelling, especially by water. | | | | Monitor itself, resting in a world-class museum. I'm |
| Newport News, a linear city that's at least 20 miles | | | | traveling by sailboat—my Tartan 30, Ode to |
| long but only two to four miles wide for most of | | | | Joy—from my mooring on the Lafayette River in |
| that length, parades slowly by as I pick up a gentle | | | | Norfolk, hoping to take a closer look at what makes |
| northerly breeze, put Middle Ground Light astern, slip | | | | Newport News compelling, especially by water. |
| past the Monitor-Merrimac Bridge-Tunnel and enter | | | | Newport News, a linear city that's at least 20 miles |
| the James. To my dismay, there's no ideal place for a | | | | long but only two to four miles wide for most of |
| cruising sailor to tie up—not in the Small Boat | | | | that length, parades slowly by as I pick up a gentle |
| Harbor that is home to a commercial fishing fleet | | | | northerly breeze, put Middle Ground Light astern, slip |
| (more on that later), not downtown, not along the | | | | past the Monitor-Merrimac Bridge-Tunnel and enter |
| beach, and certainly not along the industrial | | | | the James. To my dismay, there's no ideal place for a |
| waterfront. I feel like I'll have to keep going to | | | | cruising sailor to tie up—not in the Small Boat |
| Williamsburg or Jamestown. But I won't give up yet; | | | | Harbor that is home to a commercial fishing fleet |
| there is a way to see this town. I keep moving. | | | | (more on that later), not downtown, not along the |
| At the coal pier, the ship Energy Enterprise out of | | | | beach, and certainly not along the industrial |
| New Orleans, and a barge from Baltimore are poised | | | | waterfront. I feel like I'll have to keep going to |
| under a gantry taking on black coal that is piled in tall | | | | Williamsburg or Jamestown. But I won't give up yet; |
| mounds on land (regularly sprayed with water to | | | | there is a way to see this town. I keep moving. At |
| keep down the soot). Not too inviting here. The city's | | | | the coal pier, the ship Energy Enterprise out of New |
| dominant feature, stretching for miles along the | | | | Orleans, and a barge from Baltimore are poised under |
| waterfront, is the giant Northrop Grumman Newport | | | | a gantry taking on black coal that is piled in tall |
| News shipyard. It was founded by railroad baron Collis | | | | mounds on land (regularly sprayed with water to |
| Huntington more than a hundred years ago to service | | | | keep down the soot). Not too inviting here. The city's |
| the ships that unloaded at his docks. | | | | dominant feature, stretching for miles along the |
| The Newport News Drydock and Shipbuilding Co., as | | | | waterfront, is the giant Northrop Grumman Newport |
| it was known then, began turning out military ships | | | | News shipyard. It was founded by railroad baron Collis |
| by the scores during the war years, becoming the | | | | Huntington more than a hundred years ago to service |
| largest individually owned yard in America, until | | | | the ships that unloaded at his docks. The Newport |
| Northrop Grumman bought it not long ago. At one of | | | | News Drydock and Shipbuilding Co., as it was known |
| the piers, towering 20 stories above the water and | | | | then, began turning out military ships by the scores |
| looking about as big as a reclining Empire State | | | | during the war years, becoming the largest individually |
| Building, broods the newly commissioned aircraft | | | | owned yard in America, until Northrop Grumman |
| carrier George H. W. Bush, undergoing | | | | bought it not long ago. At one of the piers, towering |
| post-shakedown maintenance and repair. | | | | 20 stories above the water and looking about as big |
| Security is tight as a tick here. You don't even want | | | | as a reclining Empire State Building, broods the newly |
| to think about docking or losing headway. Nice doggy. | | | | commissioned aircraft carrier George H. W. Bush, |
| Don't worry. I'm just passing. At 3:30 p.m., a siren | | | | undergoing post-shakedown maintenance and repair. |
| wails. A shift change, I hope. Miles farther and there's | | | | Security is tight as a tick here. You don't even want |
| still no place to stop, but that's about to change. Just | | | | to think about docking or losing headway. Nice doggy. |
| before the James River Bridge I come to the | | | | Don't worry. I'm just passing. At 3:30 p.m., a siren |
| city-owned Leeward Municipal Marina. I'm fond of | | | | wails. A shift change, I hope. Miles farther and there's |
| Leeward. It was where I found my first boat, a | | | | still no place to stop, but that's about to change. Just |
| sweet little swing-keel Spirit 23, which I bought there | | | | before the James River Bridge I come to the |
| and sailed home. Tucked in next to the bridge, the | | | | city-owned Leeward Municipal Marina. I'm fond of |
| marina is surrounded by a white cement breakwater. | | | | Leeward. It was where I found my first boat, a |
| I had stopped here by car a few days earlier to see | | | | sweet little swing-keel Spirit 23, which I bought there |
| if I could go anywhere on foot. And to my delight, I | | | | and sailed home. Tucked in next to the bridge, the |
| could. Just up from the marina a stoplight allowed me | | | | marina is surrounded by a white cement breakwater. |
| to safely walk across the approach to the James | | | | I had stopped here by car a few days earlier to see |
| River Bridge. And right there on the western side of | | | | if I could go anywhere on foot. And to my delight, I |
| the bridge was a sandy oasis, Huntington Park. On | | | | could. Just up from the marina a stoplight allowed me |
| that day it was teeming with beachgoers: families | | | | to safely walk across the approach to the James |
| with blankets, umbrellas and coolers, lifeguards and | | | | River Bridge. And right there on the western side of |
| swimmers. Just beyond a refreshment stand I found | | | | the bridge was a sandy oasis, Huntington Park. On |
| a ramp, where half a dozen boats were being | | | | that day it was teeming with beachgoers: families |
| coaxed off trailers into the water. One could easily | | | | with blankets, umbrellas and coolers, lifeguards and |
| anchor out and dinghy in or tie up at the small pier | | | | swimmers. Just beyond a refreshment stand I found |
| that accommodates ramp users, even go for a swim | | | | a ramp, where half a dozen boats were being |
| at the beach. | | | | coaxed off trailers into the water. One could easily |
| There's a fishing pier at Huntington Park that rests on | | | | anchor out and dinghy in or tie up at the small pier |
| remains of an older James River Bridge, with the | | | | that accommodates ramp users, even go for a swim |
| Crab Shack Seafood Restaurant—it's good, I | | | | at the beach. There's a fishing pier at Huntington Park |
| hear—perched over the water. Beyond the beach | | | | that rests on remains of an older James River Bridge, |
| is an elaborate children's park called Fort Fun, and | | | | with the Crab Shack Seafood Restaurant—it's |
| then, a not-so-fun place, I imagine, the Virginia War | | | | good, I hear—perched over the water. Beyond |
| Museum. But what I was looking for and found was a | | | | the beach is an elaborate children's park called Fort |
| footbridge crossing a small creek. Aha again! If I | | | | Fun, and then, a not-so-fun place, I imagine, the |
| wanted to get to the Mariners' Museum by bicycle | | | | Virginia War Museum. But what I was looking for and |
| from the waterfront entrance to Newport News, | | | | found was a footbridge crossing a small creek. Aha |
| following the inviting River Road beside the James, I | | | | again! If I wanted to get to the Mariners' Museum by |
| could. This city is opening up a little at a time. | | | | bicycle from the waterfront entrance to Newport |
| Back in the present, I'm under the James River | | | | News, following the inviting River Road beside the |
| Bridge and passing by this lovely beach, then several | | | | James, I could. This city is opening up a little at a |
| miles of waterfront mansions, as well as the park | | | | time. Back in the present, I'm under the James River |
| that surrounds the Mariners' Museum. An hour later, | | | | Bridge and passing by this lovely beach, then several |
| after spotting the entrance markers to Deep Creek, | | | | miles of waterfront mansions, as well as the park |
| I drop my sails and motor in. On the port side is | | | | that surrounds the Mariners' Museum. An hour later, |
| Menchville, where several deadrise workboats are | | | | after spotting the entrance markers to Deep Creek, |
| moored. Ahead is Deep Creek Landing Marina and the | | | | I drop my sails and motor in. On the port side is |
| Warwick Yacht Club, both bristling with yachts. To | | | | Menchville, where several deadrise workboats are |
| starboard is James River Marina, my destination | | | | moored. Ahead is Deep Creek Landing Marina and the |
| today, and a place I'm looking forward to revisiting. | | | | Warwick Yacht Club, both bristling with yachts. To |
| Owner Marty Moliken, whom I met eight years ago | | | | starboard is James River Marina, my destination |
| when writing about the James, is there to help with | | | | today, and a place I'm looking forward to revisiting. |
| my lines. For the past 60 years, workboats had tied | | | | Owner Marty Moliken, whom I met eight years ago |
| up at an ancient city pier next to the marina. Finally, | | | | when writing about the James, is there to help with |
| this year, the old pier was removed as the city | | | | my lines. For the past 60 years, workboats had tied |
| improved the bulkheads and dockage across the | | | | up at an ancient city pier next to the marina. Finally, |
| creek. Now Moliken has gotten the ball rolling for 40 | | | | this year, the old pier was removed as the city |
| new slips and a raw bar at the end of the old pier. If | | | | improved the bulkheads and dockage across the |
| the building-permit gods smile on him, he says, it could | | | | creek. Now Moliken has gotten the ball rolling for 40 |
| all be up and running by next summer. | | | | new slips and a raw bar at the end of the old pier. If |
| At this point, Barb arrives in the land yacht and | | | | the building-permit gods smile on him, he says, it could |
| begins to unload our bikes. We'd thought of bringing | | | | all be up and running by next summer. At this point, |
| them across by boat. It's possible to stow them on | | | | Barb arrives in the land yacht and begins to unload |
| deck, but they're not the fold-up types and, frankly, | | | | our bikes. We'd thought of bringing them across by |
| we didn't want the hassle of loading and unloading | | | | boat. It's possible to stow them on deck, but they're |
| them. What I was trying to test out was my theory | | | | not the fold-up types and, frankly, we didn't want |
| that we could fairly ?easily get to the Mariners' | | | | the hassle of loading and unloading them. What I was |
| Museum from James River Marina—because you | | | | trying to test out was my theory that we could |
| just can't visit Newport News without going to that | | | | fairly ?easily get to the Mariners' Museum from James |
| gem of a museum. We'll test my theory about biking | | | | River Marina—because you just can't visit Newport |
| there in the morning. Now we test the food. | | | | News without going to that gem of a museum. We'll |
| James River Marina owns what has long been a | | | | test my theory about biking there in the morning. |
| popular local restaurant. Originally named Herman's | | | | Now we test the food. James River Marina owns |
| Harbor House, it's now called Slightly Up the Creek. | | | | what has long been a popular local restaurant. |
| We get a table on the front porch overlooking the | | | | Originally named Herman's Harbor House, it's now |
| creek, and while a fan whirs and the sun sets, we | | | | called Slightly Up the Creek. We get a table on the |
| indulge in some very good shrimp and crabcakes. | | | | front porch overlooking the creek, and while a fan |
| And—we couldn't resist—some astonishing | | | | whirs and the sun sets, we indulge in some very |
| caramel bread pudding. The western sky is | | | | good shrimp and crabcakes. And—we couldn't |
| dominated by sail-shaped clouds, with sunset in their | | | | resist—some astonishing caramel bread pudding. |
| bellies. | | | | The western sky is dominated by sail-shaped clouds, |
| With bread pudding in our bellies, Barb and I bed | | | | with sunset in their bellies. With bread pudding in our |
| down aboard Ode to Joy, falling asleep to the | | | | bellies, Barb and I bed down aboard Ode to Joy, |
| murmurs of conversation and the occasional peal of | | | | falling asleep to the murmurs of conversation and the |
| laughter from the night owls in nearby slips. We | | | | occasional peal of laughter from the night owls in |
| awake at dawn, dawdle over cereal and fruit, then | | | | nearby slips. We awake at dawn, dawdle over cereal |
| pedal off toward the museum. | | | | and fruit, then pedal off toward the museum. It's a |
| It's a nice ride, about three and a half miles through a | | | | nice ride, about three and a half miles through a cozy |
| cozy suburban neighborhood. We choose the long | | | | suburban neighborhood. We choose the long way this |
| way this time because it leads down to the | | | | time because it leads down to the waterfront and to |
| waterfront and to Museum Drive, which takes you | | | | Museum Drive, which takes you through the heavily |
| through the heavily forested Mariners' Museum Park. | | | | forested Mariners' Museum Park. Archer Huntington, |
| Archer Huntington, stepson of shipyard founder Collis | | | | stepson of shipyard founder Collis Huntington, turned |
| Huntington, turned his collection of maritime paintings | | | | his collection of maritime paintings and ship models |
| and ship models into the museum, surrounding it with | | | | into the museum, surrounding it with miles of parkland |
| miles of parkland and nature trails, so it's fun to arrive | | | | and nature trails, so it's fun to arrive this way. We're |
| this way. | | | | lucky to be visiting the museum while it's showcasing |
| We're lucky to be visiting the museum while it's | | | | a major exhibit, "Building Better Ships," that explores |
| showcasing a major exhibit, "Building Better Ships," | | | | (until November 15) the museum's intimate ties to the |
| that explores (until November 15) the museum's | | | | shipbuilding company. It was Archer Huntington's |
| intimate ties to the shipbuilding company. It was | | | | fascination with maritime art that led to the |
| Archer Huntington's fascination with maritime art that | | | | museum's creation in the early 1930s. At the same |
| led to the museum's creation in the early 1930s. At | | | | time, he hired well known artist Thomas C. Skinner |
| the same time, he hired well known artist Thomas C. | | | | and furnished him with a studio at the shipyard. |
| Skinner and furnished him with a studio at the | | | | Skinner turned out dozens of near-life-size canvases |
| shipyard. Skinner turned out dozens of near-life-size | | | | of shipwrights plying their trade—laying out |
| canvases of shipwrights plying their trade—laying | | | | patterns in cavernous lofts, punching holes for rivets, |
| out patterns in cavernous lofts, punching holes for | | | | pouring molds with red-hot steel, lining up at pay |
| rivets, pouring molds with red-hot steel, lining up at | | | | windows at weeks' end. The shipyard also filmed |
| pay windows at weeks' end. | | | | those tradesmen, as an aid for training new workers, |
| The shipyard also filmed those tradesmen, as an aid | | | | and those black and white films, recently restored, |
| for training new workers, and those black and white | | | | are now shown side-by-side with the paintings. A |
| films, recently restored, are now shown side-by-side | | | | painting of workers laying out patterns, for instance, |
| with the paintings. A painting of workers laying out | | | | is echoed by similar filmed images. Scenes of workers |
| patterns, for instance, is echoed by similar filmed | | | | pouring molten lead into a mold, bending white-hot |
| images. Scenes of workers pouring molten lead into a | | | | steel strips into the shape of a prow, or turning a |
| mold, bending white-hot steel strips into the shape of | | | | glowing propeller shaft are similarly juxtaposed. This |
| a prow, or turning a glowing propeller shaft are | | | | may be, as museum curator Anna Holloway later told |
| similarly juxtaposed. This may be, as museum curator | | | | me, "the ultimate way of interpreting historic works |
| Anna Holloway later told me, "the ultimate way of | | | | of art, viewing the paintings and then seeing film |
| interpreting historic works of art, viewing the | | | | footage of these things actually occurring." Collis |
| paintings and then seeing film footage of these things | | | | Huntington virtually created the modern city of |
| actually occurring." | | | | Newport News by running his railroad there, then |
| Collis Huntington virtually created the modern city of | | | | creating the shipyard. A small village sprang up nearby |
| Newport News by running his railroad there, then | | | | and was incorporated in 1896, the same year the |
| creating the shipyard. A small village sprang up nearby | | | | shipyard opened. "It was my original intention to start |
| and was incorporated in 1896, the same year the | | | | a ?shipyard plant in the best location in the world," |
| shipyard opened. "It was my original intention to start | | | | reads a quote from Huntington on one wall of the |
| a ?shipyard plant in the best location in the world," | | | | exhibit, "and I suc-ceeded in my purpose. It is right at |
| reads a quote from Huntington on one wall of the | | | | the gateway to the sea." That gateway became a |
| exhibit, "and I suc-ceeded in my purpose. It is right at | | | | huge embarkation point during the world wars as |
| the gateway to the sea." That gateway became a | | | | hundreds of thousands of troops shipped off to |
| huge embarkation point during the world wars as | | | | Europe. They were welcomed home to the city's |
| hundreds of thousands of troops shipped off to | | | | waterfront by a victory arch, built in the style of |
| Europe. They were welcomed home to the city's | | | | Paris's Arc de Triomphe. The museum's most |
| waterfront by a victory arch, built in the style of | | | | compelling feature for me (hardly surprising, since I've |
| Paris's Arc de Triomphe. | | | | written a book on the subject) is the?Monitor Center, |
| The museum's most compelling feature for me | | | | dedicated to that historic clash of experimental |
| (hardly surprising, since I've written a book on the | | | | ironclads, the Monitor and Virginia. This sprawling $30 |
| subject) is the?Monitor Center, dedicated to that | | | | million permanent exhibit presides over not only a |
| historic clash of experimental ironclads, the Monitor | | | | full-scale exterior model of the Monitor, but also |
| and Virginia. This sprawling $30 million permanent | | | | actual parts of it, plucked from the bottom of the |
| exhibit presides over not only a full-scale exterior | | | | Atlantic beginning in 1987 and now being preserved |
| model of the Monitor, but also actual parts of it, | | | | and displayed here. Indeed, one of the best parts of |
| plucked from the bottom of the Atlantic beginning in | | | | the Monitor Center—besides watching |
| 1987 and now being preserved and displayed here. | | | | reenactments of the battles of Hampton Roads and |
| Indeed, one of the best parts of the Monitor | | | | the sinking later that year of the Monitor off Cape |
| Center—besides watching reenactments of the | | | | Hatteras—is being able to climb up to windows |
| battles of Hampton Roads and the sinking later that | | | | that look down into the Monitor conservation area. |
| year of the Monitor off Cape Hatteras—is being | | | | There are more than a thousand artifacts here, but |
| able to climb up to windows that look down into the | | | | the star of the show is undoubtedly the part of the |
| Monitor conservation area. There are more than a | | | | Monitor that even a casual Civil War buff can |
| thousand artifacts here, but the star of the show is | | | | identify—the massive iron gun turret, which now |
| undoubtedly the part of the Monitor that even a | | | | stews in a bath as 140 years of salt incursion is |
| casual Civil War buff can identify—the massive | | | | slowly leeched out of the metal. On days when the |
| iron gun turret, which now stews in a bath as 140 | | | | water is clear, or when it's merely being sprayed with |
| years of salt incursion is slowly leeched out of the | | | | a fine mist, you can see the dents caused by enemy |
| metal. On days when the water is clear, or when it's | | | | cannon shot. You can imagine what the |
| merely being sprayed with a fine mist, you can see | | | | Monitorgunners, working feverishly inside the turret, |
| the dents caused by enemy cannon shot. | | | | unable to see the enemy, must have experienced. |
| You can imagine what the Monitorgunners, working | | | | One seaman "dropped over like a dead man" when a |
| feverishly inside the turret, unable to see the enemy, | | | | ball struck a few inches from his head. Another was |
| must have experienced. One seaman "dropped over | | | | flung over both guns from the blow. The latest find is |
| like a dead man" when a ball struck a few inches | | | | such a simple thing, an oil can that years of |
| from his head. Another was flung over both guns | | | | sedimentation and the marriage of metals have |
| from the blow. | | | | caused to be cemented to the engine's condenser. |
| The latest find is such a simple thing, an oil can that | | | | But it reminds you that there were men down in that |
| years of sedimentation and the marriage of metals | | | | engine room on New Year's Eve 1862, struggling to |
| have caused to be cemented to the engine's | | | | keep the steam engines running as water rose |
| condenser. But it reminds you that there were men | | | | toward the fire grates. The Monitor went down in |
| down in that engine room on New Year's Eve 1862, | | | | 240 feet of water off Cape Hatteras, with the loss |
| struggling to keep the steam engines running as | | | | of 16 crew. Even more poignant are the remnants of |
| water rose toward the fire grates. The Monitor went | | | | an officer's coat that were found draped over one |
| down in 240 feet of water off Cape Hatteras, with | | | | of the two gun carriages. "This is probably what one |
| the loss of 16 crew. Even more poignant are the | | | | of the crew took off to keep from being dragged |
| remnants of an officer's coat that were found | | | | down as he went into the water," Marcie Renner, the |
| draped over one of the two gun carriages. "This is | | | | museum's chief conservator, told me during another |
| probably what one of the crew took off to keep | | | | visit. Pretty exciting stuff, slowly materializing after |
| from being dragged down as he went into the | | | | 147 years of submerged history. On the bike ride |
| water," Marcie Renner, the museum's chief | | | | back to the marina, we take a faster route, heading |
| conservator, told me during another visit. Pretty | | | | west toward Deep Creek, but this time past the |
| exciting stuff, slowly materializing after 147 years of | | | | modern and growing Christopher Newport University |
| submerged history. | | | | and the impressive I.M. Pei designed Ferguson Center |
| On the bike ride back to the marina, we take a | | | | for the Arts, one of the most highly regarded |
| faster route, heading west toward Deep Creek, but | | | | performing arts venues in the region. It's nice to |
| this time past the modern and growing Christopher | | | | know that you can stop at Deep Creek or Leeward |
| Newport University and the impressive I.M. Pei | | | | and go, whether by bike or taxi, to a world-class |
| designed Ferguson Center for the Arts, one of the | | | | museum or performing space. One of the lesser |
| most highly regarded performing arts venues in the | | | | known but more intriguing parts of the Newport |
| region. It's nice to know that you can stop at Deep | | | | News waterfront is the city's Small Boat Harbor. It |
| Creek or Leeward and go, whether by bike or taxi, | | | | can be glimpsed for about a nanosecond while driving |
| to a world-class museum or performing space. | | | | over the Monitor-Merrimac Bridge-Tunnel, just off to |
| One of the lesser known but more intriguing parts of | | | | the east. What you can see, mostly, is the top of |
| the Newport News waterfront is the city's Small Boat | | | | fishing trawler rigs, so you'd be right in guessing it's a |
| Harbor. It can be glimpsed for about a nanosecond | | | | commercial fishing harbor. And not just for small |
| while driving over the Monitor-Merrimac Bridge-Tunnel, | | | | boats. Pretty big stuff, really. Crabbers, clammers, |
| just off to the east. What you can see, mostly, is | | | | scallop boats, pilot boats, Coast Guard boats and all |
| the top of fishing trawler rigs, so you'd be right in | | | | the rest. And, all along Newport News Creek, which |
| guessing it's a commercial fishing harbor. And not just | | | | creates the harbor, are seafood packing plants. |
| for small boats. Pretty big stuff, really. Crabbers, | | | | We've got to drive to get there; it's at the other end |
| clammers, scallop boats, pilot boats, Coast Guard | | | | of this sprawling town, but luckily we have the car. |
| boats and all the rest. And, all along Newport News | | | | Harbormaster Doreen Kopacz, who grew up in the |
| Creek, which creates the harbor, are seafood | | | | Willoughby section of Norfolk, greets me. We take a |
| packing plants. | | | | drive up one side of the creek and down the other. |
| We've got to drive to get there; it's at the other end | | | | "This is one of thefew spots left that lets commercial |
| of this sprawling town, but luckily we have the car. | | | | people come in," she says. We loop under the bridge |
| Harbormaster Doreen Kopacz, who grew up in the | | | | and park where Judy's Spirit, a 40-foot double rig |
| Willoughby section of Norfolk, greets me. We take a | | | | clammer, is coming in. Charles Stanley Mason and his |
| drive up one side of the creek and down the other. | | | | son, Charles Jr., are back from having done engine |
| "This is one of thefew spots left that lets commercial | | | | work on their boat. Mason, who sits on the pier next |
| people come in," she says. We loop under the bridge | | | | to his boat, has been clamming out of the Small Boat |
| and park where Judy's Spirit, a 40-foot double rig | | | | Harbor for 22 years, "and we're getting the best |
| clammer, is coming in. Charles Stanley Mason and his | | | | we've ever got for 'em." What's so great about |
| son, Charles Jr., are back from having done engine | | | | clamming? I ask the elder Charles. He shrugs. "I like to |
| work on their boat. Mason, who sits on the pier next | | | | do what I like to do. You know what I mean?" It |
| to his boat, has been clamming out of the Small Boat | | | | isn't easy, not in this era of tight regulations, but that |
| Harbor for 22 years, "and we're getting the best | | | | observation gets only another shrug. "Nothing's like it |
| we've ever got for 'em." | | | | used to be." Charles Jr., a thin beard tracing the ridge |
| What's so great about clamming? I ask the elder | | | | of his jaw, enthusiastically shows me the clam rigs, |
| Charles. He shrugs. "I like to do what I like to do. You | | | | each powered by a four-speed V-6 tractor-trailer |
| know what I mean?" It isn't easy, not in this era of | | | | motor. "It's the hardest job I ever had," he says, |
| tight regulations, but that observation gets only | | | | explaining how fast the clam scoop flies off the |
| another shrug. "Nothing's like it used to be." | | | | bottom. "You got to pay attention or you'll hurt |
| Charles Jr., a thin beard tracing the ridge of his jaw, | | | | yourself." Right now it doesn't look very promising for |
| enthusiastically shows me the clam rigs, each | | | | him to follow in his father's footsteps, he explains, |
| powered by a four-speed V-6 tractor-trailer motor. | | | | what with the state tightly regulating the clam beds. |
| "It's the hardest job I ever had," he says, explaining | | | | "If they'd leave the grounds out there open," he |
| how fast the clam scoop flies off the bottom. "You | | | | says, "I'd keep doing it till I was as old as my dad." |
| got to pay attention or you'll hurt yourself." Right | | | | Harbormaster Kopacz doesn't mind taking me around |
| now it doesn't look very promising for him to follow | | | | some more, so we continue the tour—soon |
| in his father's footsteps, he explains, what with the | | | | stopping to watch another boat, Miss Leslie from |
| state tightly regulating the clam beds. "If they'd leave | | | | Poquoson, Va., come in with about 30 bushels of blue |
| the grounds out there open," he says, "I'd keep doing | | | | crabs. Ken Diggs and his son—you guessed it, Ken |
| it till I was as old as my dad." | | | | Diggs Jr.—gripe like all fishermen do about |
| Harbormaster Kopacz doesn't mind taking me around | | | | regulations, but they wouldn't do anything else for a |
| some more, so we continue the tour—soon | | | | living. "It's all I ever did, it's crazy," says the younger |
| stopping to watch another boat, Miss Leslie from | | | | Diggs. "It's like I'm the last cowboy." There are a lot |
| Poquoson, Va., come in with about 30 bushels of blue | | | | of last cowboys here, in the so-called Small Boat |
| crabs. Ken Diggs and his son—you guessed it, Ken | | | | Harbor, one of the largest concentrations of seafood |
| Diggs Jr.—gripe like all fishermen do about | | | | businesses of its kind on the Bay. Dozens of boats |
| regulations, but they wouldn't do anything else for a | | | | come in and unload while we watch. One of the fish |
| living. "It's all I ever did, it's crazy," says the younger | | | | packing plants has a retail outlet, and a nice |
| Diggs. "It's like I'm the last cowboy." | | | | lady—"What can I get for you, darlin'?"—sells |
| There are a lot of last cowboys here, in the so-called | | | | me some very nice shrimp. Perfect for our dinner on |
| Small Boat Harbor, one of the largest concentrations | | | | board. Barb and I spend another night aboard, this |
| of seafood businesses of its kind on the Bay. Dozens | | | | time anchored at a peaceful spot in Deep Creek, and |
| of boats come in and unload while we watch. One of | | | | leave shortly after first light. A fall-like northerly |
| the fish packing plants has a retail outlet, and a nice | | | | breeze catches our sails as we parade—and then, |
| lady—"What can I get for you, darlin'?"—sells | | | | as the wind picks up, race past—the miles-long |
| me some very nice shrimp. Perfect for our dinner on | | | | city and a shoreline fringed with history. It's been nice |
| board. | | | | getting to know Newport News, New Port Newse, |
| Barb and I spend another night aboard, this time | | | | that mighty and mighty nice city along the James. |
| anchored at a peaceful spot in Deep Creek, and | | | | |